Slow Living in Da Nang

If there’s a liveable city for travelers in Vietnam, it’s easily Da Nang. You’d think you hit the lottery with the beach city - all of the world’s food around a few blocks, a long gorgeous beach, a gazillion work-friendly cafes, boutique hotels, and the best part? The connectivity and weather allow for year-around visits. No wonder it’s called the Miami of the East.  For typical tourists, Da Nang is better known for Ba Na Hills around 40km away, pulling people from nearby cities of Hoi An and Hue too. This however is not your average travel blog about how to spend the whole day in Ba Na Hills. From doing laundry to local eats, this is a guide to slow living in Da Nang for a couple of days rather than the pitstop rep the city gets from tourists. Think quaint coffee shops without loud tourists and nature escapes, topped off with a realistic take on what you can expect. Pro Tip: Slotting Da Nang during the weekends allows you to catch the Fire and Water show on the city’s Dragon bridge. Visitors can stand just beneath the dragon’s head to experience the heat as well as the mist for about 15 minutes. Remember, this is a main attraction with packed crowds on the bridge as well as the neighboring Son Tra Night Market. You can catch it with locals instead, sitting with a panoramic view of the whole affair instead. Thuy Son / Marble Mountains Escape to see the pagodas and caves well before the tourist buses come and you can just about experience zen at the limestone peaks (steep steps and uphill climb works well as a morning workout too!). Say a prayer at the temples, rest with views of the sea, and if you’re looking to explore the Am Phu (Hell Cave): the location is the same but with a separate entry ticket.

Map of the cave system at Marble Mountains

Sơn Trà  / Monkey Mountain I spent about a whole day exploring the seat of the famous Lady Buddha because honestly, the views from the curving roads around the peninsula are stunning. I recommend hiring a scooter / personal rider so that you can stop whenever your heart calls out. Here are some spots on the map to check out while Slow Living in Da Nang. 

• Son Tra Marina - thanks to social media, this is a ‘slice of Greece in Vietnam’ with its blue-white color scheme. Apart from being a quick coffee stop, I personally don’t consider it worth the hype 

• Linh Ung Pagoda - the majestic Lady Buddha at 220ft overlooks the city and coast of Da Nang. Fishermen pray to her for protection and safe sails before every journey and some hail her as a patron saint

• Garden of Memories - The Dong Dinh Museum houses antique furniture, art, and more cultural artifacts. The place also has a cafe and entry tickets allow you to opt in for a beverage and snack or just the museum visit

• Cá Chuồn Space - this tucked away spot of bliss includes a glamping area, co-working space, beachfront restaurant, and water activities. Not many tourists land up here, making this a relaxing visit to catch your breath, read a book, and have a meal  

• Mui Sung Viewpoint - if you manage to head here for the sunrise, I’m told it's the most spectacular. The cape feels untouched, with pristine turquoise waters in the sun 

• Intercontinental Resort - to me, the entire stretch to this resort is worth just for the numerous viewpoints that refresh your view of the ocean and the city you left behind 

  
  

  

  Views When Riding Around Son Tra Peninsula

Pro Tip: Only Geared Vehicles (bikes and cars) are allowed after this point. If you truly want to explore the mountain’s other attractions like Chessboard Peak, Tien Sa Lighthouse, Great Banyan etc, then it’s better to work out a package with an easy rider / local rider where you can sit as a pillion. Another note, some parts of the mountain are closed off during bad weather for safety so always check before you book with your rider. Eats to Explore I always say that the upside of slow travel is the sheer number of meals in each city; you can get the best while also making time for chance encounters. Here are some of my top picks for almost any time of the day. 

• Six on Six : perfect for relaxed brunches or long solo meals, the cafe serves up honestly wholesome good and specialty coffee. Their Arnold Palmer soon became the reason I landed up there so often, book in hand facing the street as the city went about its pace 

• Bikini Bottom Express: Californian style smash burgers and canned IPA beers? Yes please! While the joint is present elsewhere in the country, this particular one is a crowd favorite so arrive early. Their vegetarian options with jackfruit were pretty yummy toogõ

• Cửa Ngõ Cafe: Though another popular cafe, this one goes beyond with tribal aesthetics of the Northern Highlands. Most tourists go during evenings, though you can also go for the lunch hour - just be patient with the service 

• Vietnom Eatery: Housing three different subbrands, this interesting eatery encourages hand signals to communicate with their waiters while offering a fresh take on Vietnam’s favorite dishes

• Eastern Gate: let’s just say this is a name I’m coining  for my favorite Pho spot which I ate at regularly. Look for a small set up with an orange menu board that resembles my pictures below. Oh, and use Google Translate because this is a super local recco 
  

  

  My Non-descript and Favorite Pho Spot

Love Lock Bridge Da Nang is also called the city of bridges and while the Dragon Bridge has the fire and water show, its neighbor has a more romantic equivalent. On Love Bridge you'll see heart shaped lanterns and railings covered in colored padlocks. You can buy and engrave yours at the entrance to the bridge, find an unoccupied spot, and catch the sunset with your loved one.

Love Lock Bridge with Dragon Bridge View

My Khe Beach If you’re not sure what to do and you’re weary of crowds, just walk along My Khe Beach and watch the way the city unwinds. From expats to tourists, everyone comes together for a volleyball game or two and to dip their feet in the sand. Pick up refreshments from the food trucks (Caribou) dotting the sidewalk, walk over to a nice restaurant (ESCO) or a bar (Maia) and make sure you end the night with some fresh avocado ice cream! Coming from the slow and quiet Cham Island, I’ll be honest in saying that Da Nang felt like it wasn’t for me. The chatter and crowds was exactly what I had hoped to escape by coming on this month-long solo trip. But Slow Living in Da Nang is different – frequent faces start to stick in memory, you wake up and think of your favorite spots, and soon you make a home of it. On my last night in Da Nang, I stayed in my pretty little boutique hotel and thought of how I’ll miss the smell of the laundry shop down the road. I thought of the pho that warmed me when I was soaked to the bone, the kind people who tried to give me a raincoat. That’s why Da Nang, in hindsight, is probably a city that grows on you just like its people. Can you believe I was already 5 nights in by the time I got to Da Nang? Read about my time in Hoi An and Cham Island to catchup on the journey!