Hidden Gem Experiences of Hội An

Part 1: Of Noodles & Nón Lás When we think of Vietnam, what gets glorified are the conical hats or nón lá against stunning backdrops of green and blue. Lately, this has evolved to include vendors and their shoulder poles or gánh, and a gazillion trends seen on Instagram giving travel goals to flaunt. From the cafes and eateries to scenic locations - travel has become about chasing the ‘this is it’ checklist. The thing to do, all the rave, best there is; you can call it whatever, but that’s all coming from repetition and reinforcement and not discovery or authenticity. Would a local be seen at this place, eating that, wearing this? That’s the question. If the answer is no, then can you truly say you understand the place? Fun fact: The Anthony Bourdain Trail through Vietnam landed in Hội An for the World’s Best Bánh Mì. The spot he found in 2005, Bánh Mì Phuong, became an overnight sensation with long lines outside the store even now, in 2025. But that’s not the only way to get your hands on the mouth-watering staple. If Bánh Mì Phuong does 3000-5000 a day, Madam Khan - The Queen of Bánh Mì - does x3 the volume and is slowly rising to popularity. Are you really going to miss out on the authentic in search of the popular? In a conscious attempt to do things differently this time, I added another layer to my trip planning. Yes, I always make my list of things to see and do on my own, but there are some inaccessible experiences that only locals can help unlock. For example, what started as a simple search to identify the regional dishes of Hoi An, led me to a rabbit hole of happy encounters across the craft and skill spectrum.  I read that Cao lầu is also known as Hoi An in a Bowl and learnt that there’s something geographically unique about it; you cannot replicate it elsewhere because of two big things that make up the dish: the noodles, and the water used to make the noodles. 

I booked myself an Early Risers Hidden Gem Experience with The Raw Vietnam Project to experience the fading art of handmade Cao lầu noodles from scratch with the family that’s been keeping it going for generations. What I did not know at the time was the other cultural practices I’ll be participating in as part of the package. No spoilers! I won’t be capturing all the deets because it’s one every true traveler will find deeply personal but I can definitely paint a picture of why you must explore the cultural richness of Hội An. 3:30 AM My two-wheeler pickup was waiting for me in the dark of the night. Seeing me lightly dressed, she sent me back to wear something warmer and that’s how the ice was broken. For the next 6 hours, from point to point for the different activities, she would take me around, latching my helmet each time like I was a precious little thing. (This is why I say the Vietnamese are the kindest bunch ever!) 4:30 AM We reached Mr. Em’s (Ta Ngoc Em) backyard where the warmth cut through the cold of the night. You could see that time was just a construct, with the family members toiling in the grays and blacks of the noodle workshop. Our guide Ha Nguyen, a 11th generation native, grew up around Em’s family and spoke to us of the laborious and complex process involved in the signature dish. Working 364 days a year (the exception being Tết) the family is relied upon by Hội An’s authentic eateries to provide a fresh supply every day, before 6am.

Thicker dough is cut up into squares as a topping for the signature Cao Lau Dish

The hot noodles, with a distinct yellow glow, had an eggy taste and I was surprised to learn there was no such ingredient. The calcium-rich water from the old wells (Ba Le in the town center being the primary source), and ash from trees rendered the rich taste. The dough is double cooked - meaning flour steamed to dough - kneaded and cut into noodles - and cooked again in layers. I thought my participation was bound to slow them down but once I finished my task, I was offered another batch to help with. In the window of time we were there, the family turned around almost three stacks of fresh noodles!

Cao Lau's Fresh Handmade Noodles

They worked quietly, in synchrony, while Ha informed us that most shops are switching to store bought alternatives to be able to scale. My eyes fell over their hands, hunched backs, blinking eyes, and knew it to be true. After Mr. Em, who would take this task on, in an age where people prioritize profits over purpose? Pro Tip: A few other families in Hội An also contribute to the artisanal noodle market here but each one is on the decline. Travel experiences have become their additional source of revenue. Instead of choosing to book the hidden gem experiences of Hội An on Airbnb, contact your host and pay in person to avoid the platform fee and make sure the whole amount goes to the craftsmen. 5:30 AM Bidding farewell to Mr. Em and having crossed off the hidden experience I came to Hội An for, it was time to meet the fishing boats returning from the sea with their catch of the day. The streets were waking up, with speakers at their corners spilling propaganda (or so I was told), and the skies were streaked with a faint pink from the break of dawn. The ancient fishing village was a literal fish market, crowded with restaurant owners haggling for wholesale prices, fisherwomen covering baskets of neatly arranged squid and other curious creatures I could not name.

Fishermen carrying the day's fresh catch

Fun Fact: Ha told us that once the boats reach the harbor, the men retire to a makeshift cafeteria where they retire for the day to play poker. It is very much a cultural routine. Here, coffee alongside green tea is served as a local practice to quell the side effects of caffeine and aid in digestion. This fact fetched me green tea whenever asked at local coffee shops, at no cost, sharing in happiness that I even knew of the practice.

Morning poker with coffee and green tea in Hoi An

We wandered around the harbor, keeping out of the way of the day’s work. Fish were gutted and cleaned, eels were caught fleeing, and despite it all - the place did not smell one bit. Life was happening all around me, I acknowledged – every person there had somewhere else to be and the salt air swathed us all in a collective chaos before we scattered away. Nón lás dotted my landscape, on shore and on land and for once, it was not worn by tourists. The day hadn’t even begun, Ha told us he had arranged breakfast at a coffee roastery and cafe. We better eat well because we had 4 more hidden gem experiences of Hội An left. Eager to read about the rest of the experience? Stay tuned for Part 2!