Your Cham Island Getaway

You’d think a month in Vietnam was long enough to come back refreshed, a worn-out body sighing in satisfaction of having seen it all, carrying no regrets. My itinerary covered Central and Northern Vietnam and for the most part this was true, except for one place. Whenever asked where I lost my heart, which place I’d like to go again, my answer was always the same. Cham Islands or Cù lao Chàm. Cù lao Chàm is a group of 8 small islands basking in the South China Sea with sparkling turquoise waters and teeming marine life, making the region a UNESCO recognized bioreserve. It is surprisingly just a 20-minute speedboat ride away from the ancient town of Hoi An and often misses the tourist radar for good reason. The only reason I stumbled upon it is because my trip research involves scouring maps to discover spots more tuned to my slow and solo travel style. I can safely say Cham Islands was the best kept local secret, the travelers I met on the Island were few, and the ones I introduced it to did not regret. If you’re thinking of traveling solo like me, then do not miss adding this. Here’s everything you need to know to plan your own Cham Island getaway.

Views as seen from the East Side of Cham Islands

Is Cham Islands For Me? The first thing you need to understand is that this is not your average, crowded tourist spot to ‘check off the box’. It’s better suited to those who don’t mind spending a night or two on the island to do absolutely nothing. It’s more about leisure than iconic landmarks, about contemplation in the quiet and days filled with exploring reefs, snorkeling, kayaking and other water sports. For tourists who’d still like a bit of both, you can include Cham Islands as a day trip starting with a morning ferry at 8am from the Cửa Đại harbor for roughly VND 300K. The last ferry out of the island is at 1pm giving you time to check out the pristine beaches, book a water activity or two, have a quick lunch and head back to the mainland.

Arrive at the harbor 20 min early for a smooth ticketing process.

What can I do there? For the ones who stay back on the simple homestays dotting the beaches, the experience is almost private with more locals than tourists. The biggest island, Hòn Lao, has a single looped road running all around and offers stunning views at every turn. There’s no real agenda on the Island. The pace is slow, meals a safe bet in most cafes, and entirely safe to ride / hike / lounge about. Here are a few spots to see and soak up: 

• Bãi Xếp Beach

• Bãi Bìm Beach

• Bãi Hương Beach

• Đèn Biển Lighthouse

• Monkey Bar, Bãi Chong Beach

• Bãi Ong Beach

• Eo Gió Peak

• Hai Tang Pagoda

• Yen Ancestor Temple

Pro Tip: Speak to the local boatmen for rides to nearby, smaller islands for day excursions from Hòn Lao. The kind folks can also help you with diving and snorkeling spots, quiet coves, and bookings wherever needed.

What’s special about Cham Islands?

The Island was settled by the Cham people around 1000 to 500 BC, their way of life interdependent on nature so much so that the islands were considered holy to the ethnic group. While not directly related, the Champa Kingdom with its strong Indianized roots, leveraged Cham islands and controlled the spice trade among the source islands in Indonesia, China, India and the Persian Gulf. In 2009, the archipelago earned the UNESCO title opening up its pristine shores for tourism and has since then faced the heated battle of preservation vs progress of local lives. Speaking to some families there, I learned that proper access to electricity was relatively new, 10 years or so. Their fruits come from the mainland for the mischievous monkeys living in the lush forests feast before harvest. The main occupation continues to be fishing with some dabbling in tourism like the homestays and quaint beach bars. What food does Cham Island offer? Rich with marine life (and so many species at that!) expect scrumptious seafood cooked to savor as the locals do. Menus often mimic a few world dishes but you’re better off with Vietnamese food that’s made fresh, balanced, and bursting with flavor. This is definitely a place where local kitchens have more to offer than restaurants. If you’re up for it, try a seafood BBQ to experiment with cooked clams, prawns, snails, oysters, fish, and even sea urchins! Pro tip: Whenever you’re trying new food in Vietnam that you’re unsure of, grab a can of beer to wash everything down and help settle your tummy.

Seafood BBQ spread at Hanh Ly Homestay

Sold! How do I get myself there? You could plan this on your own from the speedboat tickets to each meal or you could pick a homestay to do a tailored package. I decided to leave it all to the locals and went with Hanh Ly Homestay on Bãi Hương Beach which is further away from the cluster of homestays right near the Island’s entry harbor. Lyly and her family took care of my speedboat tickets, food and board, bike rentals, and snorkelling activities too. Beyond this, she turned out to be a great person to chat with and a loving host whose wholesome energy was reflective of the calm I discovered on the Island. Connect with her over Whatsapp (+84 369365004) to arrange everything, she will speak to the people at Cửa Đại harbor and all you have to do is show the tickets to get your Cham Island Vacay started.

The day I reached, I felt an immediate urge to cancel my next destination and stay on for a few more days. Chatting with Lyly about the flexibility of my booking, she said “Oh, you want to hear the shores sing some more” and out went all my constructs of conventional travel. Here were people who understood exactly what I was looking for. I realized Cham Island is a place where you truly live with the locals. Time soon turns you into one with afternoon naps under the shade of palm trees. Soh and MiMi, my furry friends at the homestay, would run alongside till their legs carried them while I left on my bike. Coming home was a real feeling, always met with casual banter and a cold beer. Sandy beaches were for my morning coffees as much as it was for gutting fish and morning chores of the locals. Some would say the scene here is dead, but I’d argue that the earth has never felt more alive.  

Looking for more off-the-road experiences that bring you closer to culture and local lives? Stay tuned to explore the unique and rich experiences Vietnam has to offer.