Staying Solo In Old Kochi

Journal Entry July in Fort Kochi, 2019 The humid heat before the monsoons hits me like a wave and I’m still at the airport. This must be the old harbor saying hello while I’m miles away. It happened very quickly, it happened within two songs to be accurate. As the city of Cochin fell away, my music no longer matched. I switched to something old, rhythmic and found the throbbing heart of Old Kochi fall in step. One does breathe lighter along coasts, does it have anything to do with the fact that we came from water and always seek its soothing presence? 

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Fort Kochi, The Queen of the Arabian Sea. And me in its season-soaked lanes, a lost princess with the freedom to roam and discover under disguise. As many times as I have visited it, Old Kochi - a cluster made up of Fort Kochi, Mattancherry, and Wellington Island - has that unique personality that keeps you content no matter how much / less you see of it. In fact, when asked to describe Kochi or fit it into a box (what is it known for, what can I do there), I often pause and almost say ‘just arrive and see what it can do for you’.

Live in a bit of History

Old Kochi had a Dutch influence when the port was built into the natural harbor, becoming the hotspot for trade to the west. As a consequence, you’ll see wooden gabled roofs, four-column windows, and compact courtyards with an old tree or two. Choosing to stay in Fort Kochi while in Cochin is ideal, and even better is to pick one of the below accommodations:

a) The Tower House, Neemrana Hotels

Wake up in the morning, in tune with the harbor and the massive tug boats? Yes please. Wake up from your private suite in a 17th Century renovated bungalow, double yes! The Tower House sits in the place of a lighthouse, right next to the Chinese Fishing Nets, overlooking the Arabian sea. It's said to have housed boats that come in during high tide, its chandeliers have seen men from all walks of life dance together at Christmas Galas. Can’t recommend a better place where history meets hotel-like luxury without scraping at savings.

Step out for a morning walk and you’ll observe life on a coast - complete with fishermen and merchants as early as 6am. Want to stay in? Lounge by their pool and treat yourself to the local dishes from the kitchen. The twin buildings house a total of 15 rooms, a mix of suites as well as basic rooms, each done up with colonial details and flourish.

b) Forte Kochi

Wrapped up in the yesteryears of Dutch, Portuguese and British heritage is Forte Kochi, your ideal boutique hotel. The bright yellow palette cues Portuguese while the wooden beams and high ceilings add a fusion of other influences on the architecture. Forte Kochi is located a few lanes from The Tower House and is close to all the attractions you’d have to see in the area. Come home to your room laid out with restored poster beds, colorful tiles, and accented by colonial wood. The hotel also takes care of heritage walks, yoga sessions and other activities for their guests so be sure to check with them first before booking it elsewhere!

c) Waterfront Granary

If you’re looking for a place close to both Fort Kochi and Mantancherry packed with rich history, then this museum hotel is a great fit. At 170 years, the boutique hotel was formerly a granary used to store surplus harvests in the bygone years. Today, it is acquired by Bloom Hotels and holds 16 rustic rooms, equipped abundantly with colonial charm. Staying at the waterfront Granary fetches you a sea deck for twilight views on one end and access to the ancient market of Jew Town on the other end. The hotel also houses curios and forgotten antiques at every corner, a true time capsule from the 1870s.

d) Old Brunton Boatyard

You know I’m always up for a CGH property, simple because it exudes luxury and exceptional service. The chain’s property in Fort Kochi is called Old Brunton Boatyard and comes with history like most boutique hotels in Old Kochi. The hotel is situated in the erstwhile boatyard and has been built to reflect the stately grandeur of the colonial times. The best thing I love about Brunton? All of their 22 rooms overlook the sea, even the ensuite bathrooms. If you’re ready for a bit of a splurge (read self-treat) and want luxury at your fingertips, Old Brunton it is!

e) Old Bristow Lighthouse Hotel

Here’s another pick that has access to the waters without being part of any large chain. Robert Bristow was a member of the Royal Society of Arts and built the boutique hotel during his time in Old Kochi as a resident. The place transferred hands quite a bit and today it encloses a calm and serene property on the beach shore, with quaint cottages and a gazebo for whimsical evenings. You can even get to see a lighthouse mast that stands in the center of the property, surrounded by century-old trees. Whether you’re staying here or not, make sure you surely dine at their in-house restaurant. Tip - chat with the chef for the finest seafood, cooked authentically.

f) The Old Courtyard

Far more intimate and smaller is the family-run Old Courtyard, another boutique pick for colonial accommodations in Old Kochi. What’s interesting about this hotel is the human narrative: this 200-year old Jewish mansion was restored to its glory by a history loving couple, with much thought to the cultural influences on architecture and its relevance in today. Prepare to be surprised as small doors open to cozy gardens with pools and each of the 9 rooms feel like your own ancestral property.

g) Bolgatty Palace & Island Resort

If you’ve done Old Kochi a couple of times and want a completely different vibe for your accommodations, then check out the KTDC Bolgatty Palace. This palatial property was built by Dutch traders in 1740s and has different zones for rooms - 4 in the mansion block, 6 cottages facing the Marina and the like. Secluded, scenic spots are abundant on the property and is also home to a 9-hole golf course if you’re looking for leisure without stepping off the property. Make sure to check with the hotel if any other events are happening during your reservation as the property is also a known destination for conferences and weddings.

Found your pick from this list of boutique hotels and ready to start solo exploring in Old Kochi? Stay tuned for a wholesome itinerary!