Day Trip from Chennai to Mahabalipuram

Now and then, in flashes like the blinding sun over rippling water, I’m reminded of how much travel has changed me. Being a solo traveler was one thing but running my little travel-art store now means that I explore and experiment, so that the community around me gets the best of slow, intentional travel. One thing I flipped the switch on during my month-long solo adventure in Vietnam was how commute days are seen – and I haven’t looked back since. Instead of living between the locations, you turn the journey on the road into a day-long experience too. It came as a natural extension when planning Chennai’s itinerary as I moved along the East Coast Road (ECR) to Mahabalipuram. Here’s my quick guide to bookmark for your drive down the coast, especially if you’re an art lover like me.

Breakfast At Besant Nagar Beach Always remember, the west coast’s great for sunsets (especially Varkala or Mangalore) but it’s got to be the east coast for sunrises. Opt for an early checkout and hit Elliot’s Beach by 6am for sky play with light and lesser crowds. Finish up and head over to Brews & Beyond for the coziest, rooftop brekkie spot. Watch the neighborhood gear up for the day while you tuck into their limited yet satisfying menu. 

Retro aesthetics

Quaint barista bar

Rooftop dining

Love their old-world aesthetics and soothing colors, you can even borrow something from their bookshelves while you wait for your order! Art District At Kannagi Nagar Travel 10km down the coast to Thoraipakkam where the walls of Kannagi Nagar still carry colorful murals from the art collaboration in 2020. St+art along with Asian Paints brought artists from India and around the world to give an uplift to the largest resettlement site in the country. While the art project helped bring recognition to the community, their living conditions made me question if it brought a real impact on ground. It’s a bit out-of-ways to include in your itinerary so slip it in your day trip on your way out to avoid relying on limited transport options.

Start near the auto stand with the blue mural and walk your walk through the lanes where pops of color hide among signs of makeshift living. Ask locals for directions and always carry an umbrella to brave the blinding sun. Cholamandal Artists Village Nestled in Injambakkam, almost right opposite Kannagi Nagar is another spot for art lovers to cool down and take in fresh perspectives. Started by K.C.S. Paniker in 1966, it spread across 10 acres as a self-supporting commune for artists in South India. Imagine living by the sea side in the 90s, challenging modern art with traditional art forms, and knowing you’re doing exactly what you’re meant to be bringing into this world – I found myself slowing down and taking it all in as if it were yesterday. Visit the center and gallery to gaze at art that braved the contemporary world stage, learn about the artists who worked with different materials to express their heritage, sense of belonging, and their proud roots.

Respect the space and refrain from taking frames of the art being exhibited. You can pick up a book or a little keepsake from the little store to show your support to the community. 

Dakshina Chitra Heritage Museum Cover another 11km on the coast to land at this cultural living museum with dedicated zones that dive into the architecture, lifestyle, art, and craft of the different South Indian states. From the tribal dance masks of the Kodava community to the burmese teak pillars in the Chettiar mansion – each reconstructed home is decorated for an immersive educational experience. I even learnt a bit more about the weaver community of Ilkal in the Bagalkote district of Karnataka, all the way down here near Chennai. 

Reconstructed Chettinad home

Kodava mask

Seasonal exhibits

Reconstructed mud hut

Floor loom in a weaver's home

This 10-acre open air museum holds about 18-19 homes with other zones like restaurant, shop, seasonal exhibition spaces and artist stalls so make sure you account for a good chunk of time here. If you’re feeling hungry, opt to finish lunch before you head down to Mahabs. Surf Turf, Kovalam Beach I decided to go for a late lunch with a sea view at the dreamiest little surf school that also offers accommodation and a great menu. Recognized as one of the best surf schools in India, I also wanted to check the space out for future travel plans (and boy have I already started planning!). Afternoons are slow with empty tables, napping dogs, and unrushed service – just what your mind and body needs to switch out of the hectic city pace and into the tourist mode again.

Choose your pick of seafood, dine overlooking the shore, and watch the beach culture unfold towards the evening hours. They also have a full bar if you’re in the mood for a cold beer in the Chennai Heat. Mahabalipuram Of course, there would be many more blogs guiding you on exactly what to cover and the right order to go about it. I have always just hopped onto an auto, struck a conversation and seen it the way a local reveals the ruins. But beyond that, there really is so much more that I’ve recognized over my visits:

1) Stay at a beachfront resort While it sounds expensive initially, this part of the coast is flooded with tourist options and sometimes investing in your room could mean lounging on your private beach with an AC room to run back to. You’ll find a lot of guesthomes, motels, and some decent Airbnbs behind the beach but a word of caution, they’re not built for much comfort.

2) Visit the Shore Temple in the morning 6am and you’re officially allowed inside which means you can see the UNESCO World Heritage Site without too many people and more importantly without the sun searing onto your skin. It is also ‘One of Seven’ legendary temples that has survived the test of time, the other six were described by early European sailors as landmarks and are now probably one with the ocean.

3) Take a granite carving class At almost any of the stores that you see sculpted art from granite, look for a little sign that offers to teach you the basics. There are a few well-organized classes that come with lunch (and your hotel could help arrange that) but I took a small session from Albert and it was more raw and personal with me scooting into his little shop, steading my trembling fingers and using his own tools to try my hand at it.

4) Dine at Marmoris Beach Lounge For one of the lunches while you’re in Mahabalipuram, step into Marmoris and seat yourself at a table with a view of the Shore Temple. I loved the way the restaurant opened up to views of the Bay of Bengal – the glass structure really lets you take in the panorama. Remember that the menu is upscale, you might find yourself trading authenticity for familiarity instead. Climb up to the top floor to pair your fresh seafood dishes with a drink from the bar.

There you have it, my way of making the most of the coast. Soak in all that sun, culture, art and food while you’re there – you can always rest when you’re back to reality with a good tan as a memory. Don’t forget to pick out a shell that sings the song of the sea as a souvenir! 

Bring home a bit of Chennai, shop the all-new postcard collection.